"But We Are Paris..."
We'll Leave a Light On
I have heard rumblings that Paris – the City of Light – has lost some of its glow.
The city, critics claim, is dirty, noisy, inconvenient. It’s residents are rude, rushed and stressed, struggling with their role as ambassadors for the one of the world’s capital cities.
The streets are not as clean as they once were. Graffiti and homeless – while far from the levels of many American cities – are becoming more prevalent.
A popular website – #SaccageParis – shows the seedier side of Paris, where graffiti, garbage and general disrepair cries out for a thorough scrubbing and “reparation.”
Paris’ Socialist Party Mayor Anne Hidalgo has come under increasing pressure for not doing enough to end the “pillaging” or “vandalizing” of Paris.
Many Parisians agree, these are not the best of times. But they’re not the worst of times either.
“Yes, we are struggling a bit,” the owner of one of those classic corner bars confessed to me during the after-lunch lull. “There is a lot happening right now. But we are Paris. No other city can make that claim.”
The barman is right. There is a lot going on in the city of 11 million right now. But Paris is still Paris, and that’s not a bad thing.
Like many cities post-pandemic, Paris is in transition. Tourists all but abandoned the city during COVID. Now they have returned with a fury. Hotels and restaurants are booming. The Bateaux Mouches dinner cruises jockey for position on the Seine River while ashore the red double-decker tour buses reach capacity by early afternoon.
Despite the crowds, the tensions of the world are not lost on Paris. Earlier this month, the city was put on high alert after a German-Filipino tourist was stabbed to death and two other tourists – one French, one British – were injured by a knife and hammer-wielding French suspect who was known to anti-terrorism police.
The attack took place very near the Eiffel Tower, one of the most popular and visited monuments in the world.
Despite the assailant being quickly arrested, the incident seriously shook Parisians. Homicide in France is rare. The nation of 65 million reported 734 homicides in all of 2021. The U.S., a nation of 332 million (about five times the population of France) had around 21,000 homicides in the same period. The per capita murder rate in the U.S. is around 80 percent higher than in France.
France, with large Muslim and Jewish populations, was already on “urgent alert” following the brutal attack on Israel by Hamas terrorists and the subsequent attack on the Gaza Strip by Israel. Tensions remain high as the holidays approach.
Adding to the excitement keeping Parisians up at night: the world has been invited and will surely attend the Summer Olympics kicking off in Paris July 26, 2024. That’s another nine million visitors looking for warm croissants, café cream and world-class athletic performances - not to mention “les toilettes.”
Jack hammers, concrete trucks, street pavers, iron workers, carpenters, soldiers and cops can all be heard and seen on the boulevards of the city – all part of preparations for the XXXIII Olympiad.
And what is certainly an emotional touch-stone for Parisians, on the Ile de la Cite in the very heart of Paris, the Cathedral Notre Dame, damaged in a catastrophic fire in April of 2019, is set to be reopened one year from today.
The rebuild and restore work involving more than a 1,000 skilled tradespeople has been proceeding at break-neck speed on the 850-year old structure. Crowds still gather to watch under huge floodlights all day and late into the night as the jewel of Paris is restored.
While Notre Dame and the Olympic venues are still very much works in progress, Paris has plenty to offer visitors right now. Here is a sampling of some of my favorite Paris activities:
· Start the day with coffee and baked goods (they call ‘em good(s) for a reason!) at Hotel du Sentier’s restaurant near the popular shopping street Rue Montorgueil. The Sentier is also an excellent place to wrap up the day with an evening cocktail on its outdoor terrace. Bundle up.
· At the Musee de l’Orangerie, Claude Monet’s fabulous water lilies still grace the elliptical walls of two huge galleries – a permanent exhibit. Also at the l’Orangerie, the Italian painter Amedeo Modigliani’s work is finally getting the attention it deserves. On display until Jan. 15, 2024.
· At the Foundation Louis Vuitton Paris, a large and excellent selection of American painter Mark Rothko’s work is on exhibit until April 2, 2024. It should be noted that the Foundation has one of my favorite museum restaurants in all of Paris. And yes, I have been to the Musee d’Orsay’s also excellent restaurant.
· Speaking of the Musee d’Orsay, Vincent Van Gogh’s Auvers-sur-Oise exhibit remains on display until Feb. 4, 2024. It’s totally Van Gogh. But if you miss it, the d’Orsay has many terrific Impressionist masters on permanent display.
· And finally, if nothing here appeals, a quiet walk along the Seine with frequent stops at the book sellers (now selling more postcards than masterpieces) and food vendors (check these guys out – they are good!). The Seine is also expected to play a large role in the opening ceremony of the Paris Games. Athletes and dignitaries will ride boats down the ancient waterway as the world gathers for an international spectacle of sport, culture, education and peace.
Despite all that has occurred, Paris carries on as it has for centuries. The City of Light faces many challenges, but it remains a cultural, social and inspirational city with ambitions of which most cities would never dream.
And the guts to take on the Olympic Games in just seven short months!
Editor’s Note: Peggy and I spent Thanksgiving week in Paris walking all over the city day and night. We know Paris well and we understood the situation. We did not stand out – much. That said, the Parisians we met could not have been kinder or more patient while reassembling my French. There was some tension for sure. But the museums, sidewalk cafes, shopping areas and, quelle surprise, Bar and Tabac outlets were all operating “comme d’habitude.” We returned to the small village where we are currently living glad we made the visit and planning our return.
Russ - Genius! How did I miss that? Casablanca - one of my favorite movies of all time! The perfect closing line. Argh! And Yaz, it is time for you to return to Paris. It's pretty much the same, which is pretty much great!
Evocative writing, as usual! Made me reach for a croissant as I read it this morning. I agree with Yaz, c'est toujours pareil. Despite protests, pension reform and bedbugs, great cities like Paris always hang on to their essential character. As Rick told Ilsa in Casablanca, “We’ll always have Paris.”